Plinth Light Spacing HELPPPPPPPP!

[kells61]

Hi guys remember me, I was the one you all took the mickey out of over the Black and white glass splashbacks.
Well took your advice and went with Corian top (to be fitted 4th June)
50mm upstands and painted walls.
However, more problems now...I have had the kitchen fitted, bit cheesed off with bits of it, but thats another story that I shall be asking questions about later!
Firstly though, I have bought 10 plinth lights, trying to work out how to space them so they look even.
"U" shaped kitchen
Plinth 1 2460mm
Plinth 2 2130mm
Plinth 3 1330mm
Can anyone suggest how they might be spaced? Is there a method to working it out? Don't have to use all 10. Any suggestions?

Next problem: I have corner base units, the type where one door opens first and then the other the last opening door has the centre post attched but there is too me a huge gap between the post and the door? Is this right? Fitter says he used spacers as instructed.
Also top and bottom cornices on rounded wall cupboards, says only cut one side of curved cornice, to wall, this then means that the other end has to have a join which does not line up with the cupboard doors??? Is it ok cut both ends of the cornice? Really cheesed off, glossy brochure shows cornice to look like one complete piece, no joins at all, I suspect a bit of air brushing!
Would really appreciate any help!

[markspark]

not a fan of single lights, dont know what ones you have but i imagine them as being spot lighty, why not send them back and get an led strip

[Graftershave]

I put my lights where I think it looks best depending on the door sizes, if I can make it look even rather than it being a perfect measurement kind of approach,

As for the corner door, there has to be some sort of gap but it normally can be made even from door to door or door to corner post, I'm sure most of the blokes on here try to get the same 2mm/3mm on every door post fillet etc.

I also trim both sides of my curved sections on plinths or cornice and pelmet irregardless of instruction or you won't get a neat join, it means holding the material on the saw bed and adjusting it to trim, not too difficult in my opinion.

[Alex Morley]

I personally space them so looks right with the individual length of plinth so not over crowded rather than trying to get the individual measurement the same.


I also put them just below the centre line of the kickboard as the are set back you won't see the first 10nm+. But of an illusion but when they are on they look more central then

[Trickie]

I tend to position my kick board lights in the centre of the unit they are below. I.e. Middle of the door or middle of the pair of doors depending in unit size. Depending on how the kitchen has been designed the ceiling down lights can also be positioned in the same way, although normally there is a ceiling joist in the way somewhere!
Trickie

[Alex Morley]

I tend to position my kick board lights in the centre of the unit they are below. I.e. Middle of the door or middle of the pair of doors depending in unit size. Depending on how the kitchen has been designed the ceiling down lights can also be positioned in the same way, although normally there is a ceiling joist in the way somewhere!
Trickie

Doesn't that look a bit weird if you have a run of different sized doors.

[kells61]

Hi guys,
I knew you wouldn't let me down!
Thanks for all your responses, think we will go with the "space by eye method" obviously a little bit of measuring going on too with the lights.
Thanks Graftershave for the cornice issue, I will tell my kitchen fitter that it will be Ok to cut a both ends, despite what manufacturers say.
Going back to door gaps, mine are larger than 2mm though, now this cannot be the fitters fault, because if you adjust the door anymore then it will pull out of line on the hinged side surely?
Thanks once again.

[snezza]

Hi guys,
I knew you wouldn't let me down!
Thanks for all your responses, think we will go with the "space by eye method" obviously a little bit of measuring going on too with the lights.
Thanks Graftershave for the cornice issue, I will tell my kitchen fitter that it will be Ok to cut a both ends, despite what manufacturers say.
Going back to door gaps, mine are larger than 2mm though, now this cannot be the fitters fault, because if you adjust the door anymore then it will pull out of line on the hinged side surely?
Thanks once again.

In the past, I've spaced my plinth lights using both methods described above. Nowadays, I tend to use the "middle of the door above" method.
However, since fitting LED self-adhesive plinths lights on a new display in my showroom and most fitters (at least on this Forum/Site) low opinion of the visible lights, I am now going to fit the LED ribbons from now on. They do give a better effect IMHO.

Regarding the trimming of both ends of curved Cornice/Pelmet, I have always found it necessary to do so, not least for the reason that the un-cut ends are invariably not square anyway and usually painted and rough which makes them practically impossible to glue up successfully.

Regarding the door gaps, Do you have Bump Stops fitted to the back of the doors/drawer-fronts ???? If not, then by doing so will decrease the gap between the doors at 90 degrees to each other by at least 2/3mm depending on which bump stops you fit.

Snezza.

[chippy1970]

That's what im thinking too, I reckon the fitter hasn't put the rubber buffers on the corner doors. As Snezza says that would give you larger gaps on the corner unit by the thickness (2 to 3mm) of the buffers.