17-10-2020, 11:42 AM
hi there , i know its a slightly old post , but id like to share some tips if possible .
zenith have been around now for a few years . Like said though , use good quality cutters , like trend 2 Flute , ideally use proper extraction , don't force the cutter , once its blunt change it ! The heat build up is fast and blunts everything soo much quicker than say laminated chipboard type . Get more cutter / saw blades than you think you need . obviously your price should reflect the amount of blades you use . For those that do use the trend 'replaceable' blade type - don't on zenith or solid timber for that matter . they will break as are quite brittle . To get a better joint i routed off the factory edge of both pieces . i used a std jig , std makita router and mafell plunge saw both with m class dust extract . Sink cut out just use a normal HSS drill bit then either plunge saw or jigsaw if you don't have a plunge saw but be warned you will destroy lots of jigsaw blades ! Don't rush .
Drainer grooves - we had to do them on some of there designs , as normal ensure your jig is properly clamped ! The size of cutter was a 1/2" bit small radius as the depth of cut is not deep at all , the worktops too thin for big radiuses and deep cuts - it will look awful . from memory we started at like 1-2mm then a very gentle taper to 4mm total depth of cut looked ample . So start shallow and go deeper in tiny steps . For one set of drainer grooves you may need two cutters ! It blunts them Quick !
i had done quite a few of the wicks showrooms across the country from cearphilly to Doncaster -when they were being released and there heavy, annoying , expensive to work with . One other tip is obviously there only 12.7 mm thick , as a result an induction hob for example will sit much lower than normal in the base unit or Oven beneath , and may actually hit the top of an oven as a result so you may have to lower the oven to compensate - assuming you have the space to do so . Gluing them , we were using the sucker type clamps but you don't necessarily have to use them . With care and immediate cleaning with the alcoholic wipes provided - butt the two pieces together and let them go off ensuring there flat , use weights if needed and a g-clamp on the front where you can attach to keep the front edges level .
hope this is of some help to some that that are doubting them .
zenith have been around now for a few years . Like said though , use good quality cutters , like trend 2 Flute , ideally use proper extraction , don't force the cutter , once its blunt change it ! The heat build up is fast and blunts everything soo much quicker than say laminated chipboard type . Get more cutter / saw blades than you think you need . obviously your price should reflect the amount of blades you use . For those that do use the trend 'replaceable' blade type - don't on zenith or solid timber for that matter . they will break as are quite brittle . To get a better joint i routed off the factory edge of both pieces . i used a std jig , std makita router and mafell plunge saw both with m class dust extract . Sink cut out just use a normal HSS drill bit then either plunge saw or jigsaw if you don't have a plunge saw but be warned you will destroy lots of jigsaw blades ! Don't rush .
Drainer grooves - we had to do them on some of there designs , as normal ensure your jig is properly clamped ! The size of cutter was a 1/2" bit small radius as the depth of cut is not deep at all , the worktops too thin for big radiuses and deep cuts - it will look awful . from memory we started at like 1-2mm then a very gentle taper to 4mm total depth of cut looked ample . So start shallow and go deeper in tiny steps . For one set of drainer grooves you may need two cutters ! It blunts them Quick !
i had done quite a few of the wicks showrooms across the country from cearphilly to Doncaster -when they were being released and there heavy, annoying , expensive to work with . One other tip is obviously there only 12.7 mm thick , as a result an induction hob for example will sit much lower than normal in the base unit or Oven beneath , and may actually hit the top of an oven as a result so you may have to lower the oven to compensate - assuming you have the space to do so . Gluing them , we were using the sucker type clamps but you don't necessarily have to use them . With care and immediate cleaning with the alcoholic wipes provided - butt the two pieces together and let them go off ensuring there flat , use weights if needed and a g-clamp on the front where you can attach to keep the front edges level .
hope this is of some help to some that that are doubting them .
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