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+--- Thread: Newbie with zenith (/showthread.php?tid=7699)
Newbie with zenith - Davie C - 31-05-2018
Hi guys,
New to the forum but been reading a lot of the threads, some great help out there. Just about to fit some zenith 12.5mm worktops, new to me. Any advice on best cutters to use.
Cheers.
RE: Newbie with zenith - andy5405 - 31-05-2018
Have just researched this. Use a sharp triple chip, no need for a diamond blade. I'm fitting one next week.
RE: Newbie with zenith - PREM - 31-05-2018
Even though it's thin I still do 2-3 passes, it's that hard. Look at the you tube vids, they are a good help. I did a Wickes zenith this week the glue was a rapid setting which is to quick and thick. .
RE: Newbie with zenith - Davie C - 01-06-2018
cheers, i don't have suction clamps, maybe if i get some more i can justify the cost. what are you guys using to clamp the tops.
RE: Newbie with zenith - PREM - 01-06-2018
Most of the time i wedge them in from the opposite wall, or use my gecko's if its an open end.
RE: Newbie with zenith - tklco - 22-07-2018
I've sold Zenith for a good 12 months now and people use regular woodworking tools, but it does completely ruin blades.
RE: Newbie with zenith - M-Class - 17-10-2020
hi there , i know its a slightly old post , but id like to share some tips if possible .
zenith have been around now for a few years . Like said though , use good quality cutters , like trend 2 Flute , ideally use proper extraction , don't force the cutter , once its blunt change it ! The heat build up is fast and blunts everything soo much quicker than say laminated chipboard type . Get more cutter / saw blades than you think you need . obviously your price should reflect the amount of blades you use . For those that do use the trend 'replaceable' blade type - don't on zenith or solid timber for that matter . they will break as are quite brittle . To get a better joint i routed off the factory edge of both pieces . i used a std jig , std makita router and mafell plunge saw both with m class dust extract . Sink cut out just use a normal HSS drill bit then either plunge saw or jigsaw if you don't have a plunge saw but be warned you will destroy lots of jigsaw blades ! Don't rush .
Drainer grooves - we had to do them on some of there designs , as normal ensure your jig is properly clamped ! The size of cutter was a 1/2" bit small radius as the depth of cut is not deep at all , the worktops too thin for big radiuses and deep cuts - it will look awful . from memory we started at like 1-2mm then a very gentle taper to 4mm total depth of cut looked ample . So start shallow and go deeper in tiny steps . For one set of drainer grooves you may need two cutters ! It blunts them Quick !
i had done quite a few of the wicks showrooms across the country from cearphilly to Doncaster -when they were being released and there heavy, annoying , expensive to work with . One other tip is obviously there only 12.7 mm thick , as a result an induction hob for example will sit much lower than normal in the base unit or Oven beneath , and may actually hit the top of an oven as a result so you may have to lower the oven to compensate - assuming you have the space to do so . Gluing them , we were using the sucker type clamps but you don't necessarily have to use them . With care and immediate cleaning with the alcoholic wipes provided - butt the two pieces together and let them go off ensuring there flat , use weights if needed and a g-clamp on the front where you can attach to keep the front edges level .
hope this is of some help to some that that are doubting them .